Havasupai: a Grand Canyon Oasis Adventure

When Vanessa asked me to write something for the newsletter about our recent trip to Havasupai I said "I would love to." In the last ten years I have had some very exciting adventures, but Havasupai was beyond my expectations...

Day 1
The Havasupai Canyon is one of 600 side canyons off the Grand Canyon. The name Havasupai (or Havasu 'Baaja) translates to "the People of the Blue-Green waters." Living off the land for centuries, in 1882 the Havasupai tribe was banished to 518.06 acres. Due to an act of Congress in 1975, they were relinquished a total of 185,000 acres which is the size of the reservation today. Supai, the Havasupai city, is located 160 miles from the closest grocery store and all of the village's supplies are brought in by packhorse, train, or helicopter.

The village is home to 450 tribal members. There is a grocery store, cafe, post office, two churches, a school and a tourism office in town. The main source of income for the village is tourism. Havasupai Canyon is home to 200 foot waterfalls and blue-green swimming pools. A surprisingly lush oasis, it is considered the "Gem" of the Grand Canyon.

My daughter, Kasey, and I met our group on the first morning at the Old Town Scottsdale Marriott. There were 32 of us in the group ranging in age from 7 to 74! Talk about a diverse crowd. We were anxious to meet everyone and quickly introduced ourselves before splitting into three van's for our shuttle to Sedona. Along the way, our guide, Jessica, gave us her interpretation of the West. Everyone looked excitedly out of the van's windows as the landscape changed from the desert of Phoenix to snow in the Sonoran Desert.

Upon arriving in Sedona, we were awe-struck by the unique architecture, including the Church of the Red Rocks, the Easter Egg house, and a mobile home park where all structures were painted the same color as the landscape. Local laws have since been passed to ensure that when homes or structures are built, they are not offensive to the environment. We even saw a McDonald's with turquoise arches instead of golden arches! We made a quick stop at the local Safeway for ice and were back on the road.

It wasn't long before we reached our first hiking spot at Oak Creek-a 3.5 mile hike along the ridgeline offering 360 degree panoramas of the Verde River Valley.
After our hike, we stopped by the visitor's center before continuing on to our shaded lunch spot. The kids were all hanging back by their parents keeping a watchful but hopeful eye on the others, wondering who would be the first to break the ice. Nick, our lead guide, explained that we'd be continuing via shuttle to our home for the night, the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. He thanked us for our patience, explaining that the long shuttle today would put us less than an hour from the trailhead the following morning. With our tummies full, some of us slept while the rest spent time getting to know one another on our drive to GCCI.

When we reached the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn, I felt like I'd taken a step back in time along the famous Route 66. The front grounds of the inn are home to a fire truck and a dinosaur. The kids all bailed out of the vans and headed for the fire truck - its bells and sirens still work! We enjoyed a late dinner and a walk under the stars before retiring for the evening.

Day 2
The next morning we rose very early for breakfast at 6:00 a.m.! On the road to the Hualapai Hilltop trailhead we had a contest to guess how many cars would pass us. Estimates ranged from zero to 15. The winner guessed there would be 3 cars in an hour!

When we pulled into the trailhead parking area a little over an hour later, there was a buzz of activity everywhere. A helicopter was already making one of its many daily flights to the village, packhorses were being loaded up with gear and our fellow hikers were coming in and out of the canyon.

Our guides, Nick, Jessica, Stephan and Jay, pulled us all together and laid out the game plan. Our total hiking distance to the base camp was 10 miles. The first 1.5 miles were switchbacks with a 1,000 foot elevation loss. The hike to the village was 7.0 miles. Our guides reminded us to step up to the right side of the trail when we saw packhorse trains coming. They explained that sometimes the horses don't have a rider with them as they know the trail so well they could do it in the dark or blindfolded. An interesting fact: all materials including groceries, feed and mail are delivered to the village daily. The Supai post office has the last "Pony Express" mail delivery in the United States.

One of the guests asked Stephan, "What do we do if we get lost in the canyon?"
Stephan's response was easy, "All roads lead to Rome. Eventually you will get to the village."

We all went on our way at our own pace. The first views of the packhorses were a little intimidating. All of the natives on horseback were very friendly with smiles, hellos and nods. Kasey and I took our time descending into the canyon, stopping along the way to remove layers, take water breaks, and snap pictures. Off and on we met up and hiked with other members from our group, knowing all the while we were on the right road by the horseshoe prints in the red sand.

After about five miles we heard, "Hello ladies," coming from the top of a rock! It was then that we met Josh, our base camp manager. He encouraged us, telling us we were at the half way point and almost to "Man Meets Bear" - the designated lunch spot. We refueled ourselves and continued on our way to the village.

As soon as we saw the cool, blue-green water, Kasey and I both splashed it on our faces and washed our hands. Kasey had her Chacos on and decided to test the water. "Brrrr! It's cold!" she exclaimed.

We passed a couple of old, dilapidated buildings that once were probably the homes of the Havasupai. Now they are weathered piles of boards with tall stalks of grass growing around the foundations. A sign read "cross here to the village and take the bridge." We stopped to see huge minnows swimming in the water. As we approached the fringes of the village we were a little uncertain of which direction we should head to reach the cafe and post office. Along came a packhorse train so we decided to follow. Wouldn't you know it - they took us right to the village.

We walked to the store to buy postcards and then to the post office, which was right next door, to get stamps and mail the cards. Across the square we saw some of our fellow hikers resting in the shade. The village was more modern that I thought it would be, with a new school (K-8) two churches, a health clinic and a tourism office. All of the homes were equipped with electricity, water, and dish TV. The community is in the process of building a new community center. When it is done, it will have a basketball court with lights so the kids can play at nighttime.

Feeling rested, we decided it was time to trek the last 1.5 miles to the base camp. Everyone had packed their swimsuits in their backpacks and we all had visions of the "oasis at camp."

Promptly after leaving the village there was a dramatic change in the landscape. Trees and grass were lush and green with spring flowers coming into bloom. All of a sudden, we heard the sound of water and approached the first of the falls, Navajo Falls, off to our left. We stopped to take in the colors and the sounds and snapped a few more pictures. A few minutes later we heard the thundering of the 200 ft Havasu Falls.

As we approached our base camp, we were greeted by Jay who told us it was only a little further. Congratulations! We made it! It was time to explore the cool water and get the red trail dust off of our bodies. The water was so clear you could see the bottom, and the water is a constant 72 degrees all year long.

The horses that carried in our gear had already been unpacked and Josh had set up our tents. The camp was two levels with the tents set up near the river bank and the kitchen, dining area and guide quarters above.

While the guides were busy preparing dinner, they brought out trays of cheese, crackers and fruit to keep the hungry hikers at bay. Dinner was a great treat! We feasted on a mixed grill of steak, chicken and shrimp; couscous; salad; and dessert. Afterwards everyone was worn out and ready to hit their sleeping bags. Guided by our headlamps, Kasey and I found our tent. Inside we relaxed and got ready for bed with the sounds of the rushing river to lull us. We talked and laughed, happily looking forward to the day to come.

Day 3
The sun rose a little later in the canyon, so it was dark until 6:15. The guides were up and had cowboy coffee ready for those of us who needed a little extra jolt to get going in the morning. Breakfast was French toast, hash browns, fruit and grilled chicken apple sausage. The kids were all stirring and the adults sat in the "dining hall" sipping coffee and juice. Stephan rang the breakfast triangle and there was a mad rush by the kids to get the first pieces of hot French toast.
After breakfast, 30 of us assembled and headed out towards Mooney Falls, which is 196 feet tall with thundering cascades! We trekked down the trail, through a cave, and out onto a chain and ladder system that allowed us to lower ourselves into the canyon. Miraculously, all 30 of us made it down. Our reward was waiting at the bottom - our first water crossing of the day.

As we hiked along the canyon to Beaver Falls, the trail became a narrow path and the area was totally covered with wild grape vines. I imagined being in Jurassic Park and wondered how those grapes ended up there. The terrain ranged considerably from easy to challenging. We reached the section before Beaver Falls and Nick asked, "Who's doing the dry crossing and who's doing the wet crossing?" Kasey raised her hand with mine right away and said "Carolmon and I will do the wet!"

The next words I heard are, "If you do the wet crossing you have to jump the falls." "What!?" I exclaimed.

The guides proceeded to explain that to get to the end of this part of the trail there is a 20 ft jump off of the rocks into the pools below. I thought, "I'm not crazy," but eventually I decided that if seven year old Cal was doing it I could too.

We had our first practice at a six foot fall where we all jumped in and got carried a short distance downstream. After hiking and swimming a few more minutes, we reached the top of Beaver Falls. With careful instruction from Nick, each guest made the leap into the blue-green pools below.

It was my turn. The sound of water rushed in my ears as I saw Nick point to the footholds.

I was on auto pilot as I carefully placed my feet and pushed myself off the rocks. I was airborne only briefly before I felt my body plunge into the water below. I couldn't believe I'd just done such a crazy thing! Filled with adrenaline, I swam to shore. We gathered as a group and cheered on the rest of the jumpers.

A short time later the rest of the group was safely down from Beaver Falls. We reunited with the "dry route" hikers and made our way to the lunch spot. Everyone was still talking about the jump and how exciting it was. Today's hike was an in and out. After lunch we began the 4.0 mile trek back to base camp.

Going up Mooney Falls was definitely easier than coming down. As we got closer to the base camp, everyone stopped at the water filtering plant to refill their hydration packs and water bottles.

Upon returning to camp, some guests lined up for the solar showers while others sat down to relax and read or look through their digital photos from the day's hike and jump. The guides were busy in their camp kitchen preparing the evening's menu. Appetizers were edamame and pot stickers followed by a main course of Asian stir-fry, complimented by key lime pie for dessert.

Although we were all very tired from the day's activities, the laughter was constant at the dinner table that night. The group, adults and children alike, were especially bonded after the big jump at Beaver Falls. Jay, the intern, played games and sang with the kids after dinner. They were all wound up and having a great time shouting that none of them were ready for bed.

Kasey and I wandered out into an open area to look at the stars and were joined by our friends, Jeanne, Hollar, Jen and Ginger. We all turned off our headlamps and searched the solar system for constellations.

Day 4
Waking up our second morning in camp, I had a small sense of sadness. It was already our last day! I enjoyed another great cup of cowboy coffee with breakfast, which was comprised of omelets, hash browns, toast and bacon. Wow, these guys were really making me feel like a pampered queen!

After a late, leisurely morning in camp, we did two hikes. Our first was to an area about a mile uphill from camp called Navajo Falls. It was a series of small falls with the highest point being around 75 feet. A few people in the group jumped again. The first jump was about 20 feet and the second was 40 feet. The lower pools were refreshing, but they were also pretty crowded with other groups.

Our group headed back to Havasu Falls, the thundering 200 foot waterfall with nice sunny pools at the bottom. It was a little challenging to follow the travertine foot trails that were under the water but really cool to cross over the lagoon to the other side. After relaxing we headed back to camp for lunch.

That afternoon, some people opted to stay at camp, take advantage of the hammocks, and do some reading. The rest of us headed back to Havasu Falls. There was a cave behind the waterfall that the guides wanted to show us. Since I am not a strong swimmer, I stayed behind with a group of kids on the bank and watched them splash in the pools. After a few minutes, I saw Josh pop out of the falls into the pools, followed by Kasey who was laughing the entire time.

Now we had to make a decision! We could either go back to camp or hike further - down to an old lead mine in Carbonite Canyon. We opted to continue. We all donned our headlamps and walked into the caverns for a tour, following our trusty guides through the tunnels. After a few minutes, we gathered in one opening and had a "moment of darkness and silence." It was a little nerve racking to stand there in the blackness.

We came out of the mine and down into the canyon where the group again split into smaller groups. Kasey and I hunted for fossils and rocks, making some great finds! We looked so long I had a back ache from stooping over. Even still, I believe I could've looked for rocks and fossils all afternoon.



Our farewell dinner that night was Italian themed - a complete carbohydrate load that would supply us with enough energy to hike the ten miles out of the canyon the next day. Appetizers were artichoke and spinach dips followed by a main course of spicy marinara sauce and pasta, grilled Italian sausage, sauteed green beans, and garlic bread topped off by tiramisu for dessert.

The general mood after dinner was a little somber. We all took turns talking about trip highlights. The guides were inspiring with their words of encouragement and praise to all of us. As things started to wind down, Nick informed us that it would be an early morning with breakfast ready at 6:00 AM!

I thought I was tired when I returned to our tent. Kasey and I both read for a little while before we turned off our lights. Usually I have no problem going to sleep, but that night I stayed awake for a while thinking of how special the place truly is and what a wonderful experience it has been to be there.

Day 5
I awoke early to the sounds of the river. Kasey was still sleeping peacefully. I knew coffee would be on, so I strolled to the kitchen for a cup. Others were already up and milling about. We sadly removed our gear from our tents, filled our CamelBaks, and packed our lunch.

Kasey and I were on the 10 mile trail out at 6:45 am. Along the way we hiked with Jen and Jeanne. Hollar was ahead of us. We kept stopping to take pictures or enjoy a few last views of the falls.

Kasey was ahead of me on the last two miles of the trail. I knew that the evil switchbacks were coming soon. The last 1.5 miles of the hike were up the canyon with a 1,000 foot elevation gain. I took my time meandering like one of the pack horses. Finally I spotted the top of the ridge and the heli pad! I made it out in 4:30 hours.

There was a small group waiting at the Hualapai Hilltop. We cheered for our comrades as they made the final twists and turns up the trail. I wouldn't have missed the hike for anything! It was awesome and unlike any other place I've ever been.

The last member of our group to make it up the trail was nine year old Max. We all gathered at the trailhead to cheer him on as he rounded the final corner. You should have seen the grin on his face - it was priceless!

Our journey was almost over. We made one final stop along Route 66 at the Snow Cap Diner, which proudly displayed the craziest decor I have ever seen! It was a great place to conclude the trip. The restrooms looked like wooden outhouses, the jukebox had the best selection of music, and the burgers were as big as my head! Here we said our goodbyes to part of the group (they were headed to Flagstaff) and the rest of us shuttled back to Phoenix.

One of our guides on the trip spoke the last night about alliterations: the repetition of a leading consonant sound in a phrase. It must have made a big impression on me because the words tumbled like rocks in my head Thursday night. Friday morning when I woke up I had "Embrace Enchantment Experience Exquisite Exhaustion" rolling around in my head! That is what I came back with from Havasupai. I am thankful that the land is protected by the reservation; it truly is the Gem of the Grand Canyon.

Carol's Havasupai Travelogue

Havasupai: a Grand Canyon Oasis Adventure

England Coast to Coast - Prologue

I am still searching for a perfect way to write up the Wayfarers Coast to Coast Walk experience. When I share my pictures with others in person I point things out, they can hear the excitement in my voice and I can to some extent convey just how much fun it all was. But you dear reader have to rely on a very few photos and lot of words. My aim had been to keep this short, but that didn't happen. The trip was eight days, seven nights which for the purposes of this narrative, I have divided into three parts the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North Yorkshire Moors.

As a single traveler it can be a difficult business deciding on how to take a vacation. Somehow I got it into my head that I wanted to walk across England. In April I signed up for the Wayfarers Coast to Coast Walk, as they seemed like a classy group and a company that was truly interested in walking. I didn't have much idea about what I was getting into, I just wanted to walk across England and luckily picked exactly the right adventure.

The group first met in entirety at the Swan Hotel in Newby Bridge near the southern tip of Lake Windermere. Surprisingly, there were only four walkers: a couple from Rhode Island, a lady from California and myself. We met our Wayfarers guides Bill, walk leader, who would guide us on the trail and Alan, walk manager, who handled all the logistics of hotels, meals, mailing postcards (he even provided the stamps) etc. Bill started off presenting us with a series of maps and a short talk on how things worked. Right away I knew that this trip was going to be fun. We headed off to the first of many excellent dinners where I discovered Sticky Toffee Pudding

Bhutan - A Dream Come True

After no wake up call and the broken watch alarm, we still made the 4:30am shuttle to the Bangkok airport to catch our flight to Bhutan. Our adventure started a few days earlier in Bangkok - the land where nothing is what it seems. We had a great time taking the boat to the floating markets, visiting the grand palace, eating fantastic foods, praying to the standing Buddha, sleeping Buddha, the sitting Buddha, and the emerald (actually jade) Buddha. We crammed the must see sites in a few short days.

Arriving in Paro Bhutan was a total trip. The flight was beautiful with clear skies and views of Everest and other majestic peaks of the Himalayas. As we approached Paro the pilot announced that the landing will be like no other landing we've experienced. Good thing he did because I was about to have a heart attack. Paro is in a valley surrounded with high ridges. The approach to Paro is through a curvy valley where the sides of the mountains are RIGHT outside the plane windows. They turn right, then left through this valley before landing on the airstrip. I giggled through the whole thing and asked Kevin to pinch me to make sure this was all real. Great way to arrive in the Kingdom of Bhutan!

We met our guide, Kunzang, who immediately started our tour of Paro. First we experienced the National Archery Competition. The competition consisted of 3 teams of 4 players each. The arrows were shot 150 yards! Teammates stood right next to the bulls-eye to encourage a good shot. Brave souls... Their precision is impeccable. We saw one guy hit the bulls-eye and and his teammates performed a little dance. I'll just say it was nothing like the NFL touchdown dance. Next we visited Drugyal Dzong. Drugyal means "Thunder Dragon" which is the ancient name of of Bhutan. Last night we drove to the capital city of Thimpu. The drive was along a windy mountain road littered with blue pines, weeping cypress and monkeys. It was a crazy drive since it���s all under construction and everyone is passing each other. Thimpu is a city with no traffic lights but lots of barking dogs. Fortunately we are staying at a nice hotel across the river so the dogs aren't so bothersome. Prayer flags hang everywhere spreading prayers down the rivers, up and over the mountains so they reach all sentient beings. Including all of you! we must go eat now, which is one of the best parts of the trip. The food is actually awesome. Lots of vegetables, cheesy potatoes, fish, and my favorite, cheese dumplings. Kevin is eating the native chili cheese dish which he can't wait to cook for you all when we get home.

On our way home killing time in Taipei... Computers were far and few between on this trip, and the 2 days we made special trips to town to write, the power was down. Some towns share power; one gets it one day and the other gets power the next. Although both towns get power after 5 pm. Brilliant idea, really... That should give you an idea of Bhutan. Once you leave Paro and Thimpu, it���s like the twilight zone. I felt like we were warped back to the medieval days, except with modern cars. Bhutan's ancient world and traditions are being bombarded by westernization - TV was introduced 10 years ago, cell phones 3 years ago and the computer somewhere in between. Since the introduction of this communication, the younger generation desires western materials and thought. Unfortunately this is creating more violence, pollution and conflicting thought. Nevertheless, people are proud of their country and their ability to have sheltered themselves from the modern world for so long. People are well taken care of with free education and medical services. Most of the HIGH tourism fees support the social programs. Of course there are a few forgotten populations, but for the most part everyone has access to education and healthcare.

I think Bhutan is like Tibet was before China massacred the Tibetan Buddhists and destroyed their monasteries and temples. Bhutan is a religious and cultural trip and people would be cheating themselves if they just went to trek. Bhutan is rich in culture, traditions, festivals celebrating local protectors and deities and of course the Buddha's, bodhivistas and their manifestations. Buddhism is much more complex than I even thought! It's not just about the 8 fold path...

The trek was amazing. We had phenomenal views of the Himalayan peaks bordering TIbet and India. The highest we hiked was 15,600 ft for lunch and camped at about 14,500 ft. The trekking is vertical; lots of up and down. Unfortunately our guide was sick with a head cold, which got Kevin sick, but nothing too debilitating. It was great to breathe the fresh air, camp in the high altitudes, hike the high passes above tree line and in. The landscape above tree line looks like high desert. We started in blue pines, bamboo, oaks and Rhododendrons which gave away to silver firs, junipers, more species of rhodedendrons, Laurels and other species our guide unfortunately didn't know. Nevertheless, we did a pretty good idea of guessing since some plants seemed similar to home. Trees were draped with spanish moss which made for an enchanted forest feel.

After crapping in the woods for 5 days and freezing our butts off at night, we were taken to a luxurious (for Paro standards) resort where I soaked in a hot bath in our upgraded junior suite (I love traveling with Myths and Mountains!). We were able to hike up to Tigers Nest the following day which is one of the most sacred temples in Bhutan. It's located on the side of a cliff, literally. Not so sure how the temple doesn't fall off because it���s literally hanging on the side of sheer cliff. It was amazing... I will have to share pics of this when we return to give you an idea. We left Paro yesterday and have had a string of good luck. We were upgraded to business class on the Kolkata-Bangkok flight for being such nice folks. Not really sure why, but it was damn nice. Table cloths, wine, and a fine meal. I love Bhutan Royal Airlines! They also have some damn good pilots...

KT and Kevin Hickey

Blogging from Bhutan...

Paro Dzong
Hi! We are currently in Trongsa, Bhutan, and this is the first internet access we've had since our trip began. Everything is wonderful. We have a great guide named Dorji and we are really bonding with him.

We started out in Paro and went to a dzong (monastery) and an incredible medieval fortress-turned-museum. Then it was off to the capital city of Thimpu where we visited another even more spectacular dzong (they have so many adornments - almost every square inch is elaborately painted, there are awe-inspiring brightly colored wood carvings, butter sculptures, musical instruments, gorgeous silk textiles, a 30 foot golden Buddha statue...you could spend hours and hours in every dzong, and there is one in every district of the country).

Dzong in Thimpu

We went to an artisan school where high school students were learning traditional arts (painting, weaving, sculpting, carving, sewing, etc). We went to the "zoo", which is really just a fenced-in area for the endangered national animal, the takin. There is a legend that the second Buddha (Guru Rinpoche) created it with the head of a goat and body of a cow. Even taxonomists have given up trying to classify it and have put it in a category all its own.
View of capital city Thimpu

We were supposed to hike over a very high (14,400 foot) mountain pass to get to the village of Shelmakha for their yearly festival, but the altitude was really getting to Craig. When he felt disoriented and dizzy, needing to lay down before lunch on the first day, we decided a change in plans was in order. Sometimes things happen for a reason. We ended up camping right next to the hostel for a local boarding school. The students immediately befriended us and won our hearts. they took us up to show us their rooms and how they live. We carry a little album of photos from home and they wanted to keep pictures of us. They were really sweet and we were so glad to have met them. They brought down their photo albums for us and presented us with a photo to keep.

Our friends from Genekha Lower Secondary School - Passang Dem (Class 7) and Phub Dem (Class 8 school captain)

We decided we were still determined to get to Shelmakha on foot, so we "hiked" and camped along the mostly dirt roads. When we finally reached Shelmakha, it was goreous. We arrived a day early and got to see festival preparations.

Dasho Karma Dorjee and one of the festival dancers in Shelmakha

Here we met (Dasho) Karma Dorjee, the Bhutanese Secretary of Industry and Tourism. He is a very important man who was raised in Shelmakha and returned for the festival. It was raining lightly the day prior to the festival and he was carrying a Today Show umbrella that he got from Matt Lauer's crew when the NBC show was here earlier this year. He took us under his wing for the next two days and explained everything to us and treated us like dignitaries.

"The Peekaboo Crew" - who kept us entertained while watching the festival

The weather cleared up for the festival for the first time in 3 years. We met a lot of wonderful people including children who were so generous and were always presenting us with gifts of food. The dancing and singing at the festival were amazing.

"Angel Dance" at Shelmakha Festival

At night they had a campfire and taugh us some dances (and yes, Craig even danced! When the Secretary asked, he jumped right in. You don't say no to Dasho!) They insisted that we teach them "one of our cultural dances". Ummm...we were put on the spot and all the kids kept encouraging us. They wanted to learn a dance from the USA. What were we to do? The Electric Slide to the rescue (I never thought I would ever use those words together!) The kids LOVED it.

We camped for 3 nights in Shelmakha and then stayed in a farmhouse for two nights with a local family. We attened a community HIV-awareness comedy/musical show (2 hours and 45 minutes of live entertainment for $1.50 - you can't beat that) and everyone seemed totally happy that we stayed in town for a couple of days.

HIV Awareness show at the school auditorium

On our free day in Shelmakha we brought a Frisbee and played with the kids for hours. It was a big success. We presented the Frisbee to the family we stayed with and the young boy held it to his heart and gave it a kiss. We were then invited into someone's home for tea and a movie ("Enter the Dragon" with Bruce Lee). It was sad to leave the village, but we had to move on.

Our host family in their altar room

Next we went to Punakha, our guide Dorji's hometown. We met his twin brother and his little 12 year old brother. We went to his mother's house and she prepared an authentic Bhutanese meal for us. The chilies and cheese are so delicious but talk about hot! Almost as hot as the weather!

We went to Punakha dzong and the temple of the Divine Madman (who is famous for having subdued a demon with his phallus). We hiked up to a gorgeous Buddhist stupa (aka chorten) which is a momument containing holy statues and texts. We climbed to the top and had a gorgeous view of the valley and river below. Today we drove through WhangduePhodrang and visited their dzong, and then continued on our 5 hour car journey to Trongsa.

View from the top of the Khamsum Yuly Namgyal Chorten

Painting Detail in Punakha Dzong Courtyard

Now, here we are, in a really beautiful hotel. Our room overlooks Trongsa Dzong and the valley below. We even saw golden langur monkeys on the side of the road. We have dinner in about an hour and a half (it's 5:30 PM here now) and then a nice long sleep. We'll be up early tomorrow to head to the National Library, Trongsa Dzong, and then on to Bumthang Valley.

View of Tronsga Dzong from our hotel room

We have already taken over 2100 photos. Luckily we still have lots of memory cards left. We have about 6 more days in Bhutan and then we are off to the Taj Mahal. Home on the 26th.I don't know if we'll have another chance to write (I kind of doubt it) but please know that we are safe and having the time of our lives!

Steph & Craig

Buthan - October 2007

The Wayfarers in Ireland - Spring 2007

Ring of Kerry

May 27-June 2, 2007

I think I have this legend right: A man wanted to become a monk. He went to the Observantine Franciscan order near Killarney. He was told to wander the land for a year, through four seasons, and look for a "Rock of Songs." When he found the rock, the friars would build their abbey there and he could join them. The man did as he was told. He wandered for an entire year. On the last day, he stopped on the banks of Muckross Lake, where there are large sandstone and limestone outcroppings not far from shore. While there, he heard the soft humming of a young girl who had swum out to the far side of one of the outcroppings. The man finally had heard the "Rock of Songs," and Muckross Abbey was built nearby in the mid-1400s.

That's just one of many Irish myths and legends we heard during the Wayfarers Ring of Kerry walk in May 2007. My fellow walkers and I also learned a lot about ancient and recent Irish history (from the potato famine to Daniel O'Connell to the Good Friday peace accords), the area's geography (including lovely views of Ireland's tallest mountain, Carantuohill, at 3,414 feet), and the spawning habits of the local salmon. We also walked to and learned about Staigue Fort, a 2,000-year old fort and family compound, and an ancient standing stone circle constructed by Druids to celebrate the August harvest festival.

But it wasn't all about learning. It also was about gorgeous views, lovely people, and fabulous food.

The southwest of Ireland has been touted as the most beautiful part of the country, and it would be hard to disagree. Our walks took us into rain forests and over hardscrabble hills fit for sheep grazing (but not for farming). We walked on cliffs overlooking Kenmare Bay and the Atlantic Ocean and along Derrynane Beach (the ocean was cold!). We visited beautiful Deneen Gardens. We walked in and through places with magical names: the "Dancing Crossroads" trail and the "Reenadinna" yew woods, not to mention the "Blind Piper" pub (apparently, in the old days, many traditional pipers actually were blind).

Along the way, we met lots of everyday people: a woman who proudly showed off the beautiful calla lilies in her garden; our walk manager's father who met us for lunch one day; the locals in Crowley's Pub in Kenmare; and a farmer who showed us how to cut peat using a long-handled trowel and shear a sheep using a pair of well-worn scissors. We met a few characters as well, including Daniel O'Connor and his wife. He ferried us across Caragh Lake in a flotilla of small boats, but before he did so, his crusty wife "strongly encouraged" us to have liberal samples of poteen (pronounced pah-CHEEN), a bootleg hooch she made. Basically, she was a "won't take no for an answer" woman, and it seemed in our best interests to do as she said. So we drank, from assorted shot glasses proffered from a big red plastic bucket (better not to ask what the bucket had been used for most recently).

For me, it's also all about the food. I was in salmon heaven: one day, I had it at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Also, great, hearty chowders and sandwiches at pub lunches and very elegant dinners, either in our hotels or in local restaurants. Lots of beautifully prepared fish (things in addition to salmon!) and lovely lamb chops. Not to mention the Guinness. . . .

No matter how well organized and seamless the logistics, or how beautiful the scenery, a memorable Wayfarers experience depends on the staff and one's fellow walkers. And this walk gets an A+ in both.

Our walk leader, Alan Pinkney, is a consummate pro. He seemed to know pretty much everything there was to know about Kerry specifically and Ireland in general. And he was great at the people part of his job: getting a "read" on the walkers individually, figuring out how to get people engaged, making sure that everyone was included in his mini-lectures along the way, allowing enough time for the slower walkers to catch up before he started talking and then giving them enough time to catch their breath, too, before moving on. Our walk manager was Michele O'Brien, a Kenmare "local" who not only knew a lot about local history but also was a creative and efficient problem solver, resolving issues as serious as swallowed-up ATM cards and lost passports and as casual as making sure she had enough friends and family in her local pub one night so we could see some traditional Irish step dancing.

As to my fellow walkers, there were 19 of us in all. We were from all walks of life, literally: from the US, Canada, and England; still working and retired; couples and singles. But we had several things in common, things that always make Wayfarers walks special for me: a robust curiosity, a love of beauty, a positive outlook, a modicum of stamina (for pub-crawling as well as walking), and fabulous senses of humor.

Thanks to the Wayfarers for another memorable vacation!

Alison
Lenox, MA
Wayfarers Ring of Kerry Walk, May 2007

Take Me Back to...Slovenia?

If you could tap the heels of your hiking boots three times and magically appear anywhere in the world...where would you go? Chances are, not Kansas. But Slovenia? Who goes to Slovenia??


Truth is, hardly anyone. It's untraveled. Defines off the beaten path. Which is the magic of it. And exactly why The Wayfarers has decided to add it to their roster as their newest walking destination for 2007.

So what's it got to offer, you ask, besides its remote appeal and lots of words you can't pronounce (what's with all the words with three consonants in a row)?

Hmmm, where do we start? Can't explain the consonants--sorry--but depending on where exactly your time-warp lands you, you could find yourself peering at your reflection in a glassy fjord-like lake, or winding your way through an intricate underground cave.

You might pop up in a lush valley--no fences, no signs, just you and a meadow of exploding flowers. Or you may land in Ljubljana (good luck pronouncing that one), Slovenia's capitol and architectural marvel of bridges, parks, churches and buildings in the Baroque, Renaissance and Neo-Classical styles. You may find yourself sipping afternoon tea on the terrace of Bled Castle, meandering the Julian Alps or sampling your first Slovenian wine...

...Enough said?

By now you've probably Googled 'map of Europe' to remind yourself where, exactly, Slovenia lives on the globe (don't worry, I had to do that too)...and you're probably wondering 'How do I get there? What do I bring?' It's simple. Okay, not as simple as tapping your heels, but hardly more difficult than making a quick call and throwing your hiking boots and a camera in a bag.

Sorry folks, Toto stays home.